(NM 442 322)   Alt 50m   West facing

This is an unusual cliff, possibly unique,  of quartz conglomerate topped by limestone. The highest section of rock has an overhang at 7 metres which seems to always seep. Probably climbable anywhere, the routes generally follow lines of better holds or runner placements. West facing, a lot of the rock dries in the evening sun. Seepage from the hill affects many routes, the weather the previous week or two is more relevant than the previous day or two.

The grades might be slightly out!

ACCESS

From Salen head west, then follow the road (B8037) along the south side of Loch Na Keal past the Gribun cliffs. When the road starts to gain height take a minor road on the right to Balmeanach farm. Follow the  footpath to Mackinnon's Cave till the crag comes into sight on the left. Fifteen minutes from the road.

Are You A Man Or A Danny   20m   E1 5a(1997)

Climbs the pillar left of the main face. Climb up to gain the flake/crack at the left side of the pillar, this leads to the ledge. Start up a corner on the left move past a large loose block and continue leftwards more easily to the top.

1 Thirty One Lesbians   20m   E3 5b(1999)

Start at the middle of the pillar at a step in the cliff base. Climb up, straight forward but poorly protected, a large rock can be placed before gaining the mid ledge. Make reachy moves over the bulge and continue to easier rock, follow the easy but loose ramp up right.

2 Red Drupelets   22m   E3 5c *(1998)

Start at the same place as Yellow Snail, follow the fault up left past the right end of the overhang then step left above it. Continue straight up over another bulge just left of some big pockets. Climb slightly left to the top.

3 Yellow Snail   25m   E4 6a **(1997)

Start at the left side of the main overhang at some boulders. Climb up to the overlap, using a horizontal break above for the hands move right to a good pocket. Continue up slightly leftwards to reach a break in the next overhang, move right through this to a good ledge. Traverse right along the ledge and follow the fault to the top.

4 Is It Safe?   20m   E5 6a **(1996)

A strenuous route with fair but spaced protection. Start just left of Mur Sans Spits. Climb easily up to the ledge, make a move up the steep wall,  traverse left (damp) to a flake then climb up to the overlap. Climb directly up steep rock to a good ledge (where the angle relents) on the right. Climb up slightly left to the top.

5 Mur Sans Spits   20m   E1 5a *(1996)

A steep route with fair protection. Start at the right side of the main cliff at a short wide crack. Go straight up to pockets (3 friend), step up left to overhang at flake crack then up to bay. Move left then up to top bay, start up a hollow flake then step right to finish (some might prefer an in situ rope for the final step on grass).

Baby Kissing Tour   20m   E1 5b(2001)

Climb up just left of the corner with some runners in the corner, near the top move up left on a flake crack, and pull over with a small tree. Good clean climbing despite the vegetated look.

6 Mushroom Picking    20m   HVS 5a *(1995)

Right of the main face is a corner, right of the corner is a rib. Climb the right side of the rib. The crux, the bulge high up, is protected by wires in the crack above.

Endless Summer   18m   E1 5b(2002)

The crack, bulge and slab.

7 Glam Rock 16m E2 5c *(1999)

Move up to the crescent shaped overhang. Climb the crackline above with an awkward bulge.

Milanda Shelf   16m   VS 4b(1994)

The left facing corner where the crag changes direction. Move up left then climb the corner.

Welly Stealing Sgiathanchs   15m   HVS 5a(2000)

The crack in the scoop right of Milanda Shelf finishing by pulling on small trees.