Barra
1 Lunar Geo
2 Hot Wall
3 Dubh Slab
4 Barra Wall
5 Dancing Walls
6 Black Ramp
7 Black and Tans
8 Breaker Wall
9 Feudail
There are climbing photos here Barra climbs
There are general photos here Barra
There are crag shots here Barra Topos
The main interest is the line of extensive sea cliffs in the south west but the sea cliffs in the north west appear to be undeveloped.
AIRD GHREIN
Two gneiss cliffs have been climbed on at the north west point of Barra, there is a lot of potential for more routes here.
Approach: Start from the golf course (NF 662 042). Walk up the track that leads to the mast then continue out past the house to Aird Ghrein 20 to 30 minutes from the golf course.
CREAG EILEAN NAN EUN MORA
GG (NF 647 049)
Eilean nan Eun is to the north of Aird Ghrein, the surrounding land is ringed by cliffs, there is also a lot of cliff on this small island. The route below is to the north west where the cliff north of the island gets shorter. Walk round north of the island then scramble round below the crag from the west.
North Chimney 20m Very Difficult (2009)
Climb the shallow chimney line.
CREAG EILEAN EAN BEAGA
(NF 646 048)
This clean wall faces the island, the rock is slightly friable in places. The routes finish on a flake ledge, From this ledge scramble up 20m or traverse off and up. Abseil in or scramble down either side.
Linking Corners 20m Severe (2009)
Climb a shallow right facing corner at the left side of the crag, step left and climb another corner.
Gaining the Corner 20m VS 4b * (2009)
Climb the nice wall just left of the next route to gain and climb a right facing corner, step left and continue to the top.
Right hand Corner 20m Severe (2009)
At the right side of the crag is an open chimney feature. Climb the crack left of the chimney then climb the right facing corner, step left and continue to the top.
BORVE SCHOOL
(NF 656 020)
There is a handy pair of slabs at the school, they can be useful for a poor day, the routes were climbed in drizzle.
Travelling north up the west coast road after the Isle of Barra Hotel is the township of Borve, the school is the last building. From the road cross the fence and walk to the stab in a minute, the right hand slab in another minute’s walk to the east. The first three routes climb the left hand slab and are not well protected, the last three climb the right hand slab.
Routes are 15m
3 Very Difficult
Routes are 12m
3 Difficult
SOUTH WEST
To the west of Castlebay lies the huge rounded bulk of Beinn Tangabhal. There is a long line of sea cliffs to the west of it, they stretch for about two kilometres. Routes are described from north to south.
LUNAR GEO, THE LIGHT SIDE
(NF 627 001)
This is the long impressive chasm, attaining some 90m in height, that is passed on the coastal approach to the Rock Island Area.
From just south of Isle of Barra Hotel NF 649002. Follow the marked path towards Dun Ban. Cross the fence where it starts to dip down towards the sea then contouring round to about 90m to reach the chasm. Abseil in, down the line of Harvest Moon.
The following 4 climbs lie on an excellent 70m wall at the seaward end of the South West face of the chasm. The most recognizable features are a left facing corner and a wall to its left containing prominent twin cracks. Approach by a 60m abseil down the line of the corner to a small belay ledge, 7m below and left of the base of the corner and some 10m above the sea. The next 3 routes start from this ledge – an impressive place!
Routes described right to left.
Harvest Moon 60m VS 4c,4b ** (2009)
45m 4c Move up right and climb a rib to gain the base of the corner. Follow the corner throughout and exit on to good ledges on the right.
15m 4b Step left and continue in the same line to the top. Belay well back.
Shine On 50m HVS 5a *** (2009)
Climb the centre of the slab, trending slightly left to avoid bulges, then go back right to below a hanging left facing corner crack (7m left of Harvest Moon). Climb the crack steeply through the bulges then follow the obvious twin cracks in the upper slab to reach big ledges on the left just below the top.
Lunar Eclipse 50m E2 5a, 5b ** (2009)
35m 5a Climb the centre of the slab more or less direct to below a right facing hanging ramp (5m left of Shine On). Follow this steeply leftwards through the bulges and continue up to a good ledge below the smooth head wall.
15m 5b Climb the centre of the clean slab (3m left of the twin cracks of Shine On) with a balancy move to reach a good break. Move right and up a slanting crack to finish at the top of Shine On.
Lunatic Fringe 60m VS 4a, 4b *** (2009)
Approach via the 60m abseil (as for the previous routes) down the corner of Harvest Moon, but belay 8m further left on good ledges near to the left edge of the slab. A very good route with incredible situations for the grade.
45m 4a Climb the left edge of the slab on good holds until above a line of overhangs to the right. Traverse right on ledges for 4m then up trending rightwards heading for a steep prow. Belay on ledges to the right below a clean headwall (as for Lunar Eclipse).
15m 4b Move back left and climb the wall just right of the prow to a ledge below a short steep groove. Up this to the top.
ROCK ISLAND AREA
This area is around the rocky island at NL 624 999, just past Lunar Geo. Hot Wall overlooks the island from the north, Dubh Slab overlooks the island from the east, Ice Cream Wall is between the two.
Go down the peninsular before the rocky island to the top of the routes for Hot Wall and Ice Cream Wall. There may be gulls nesting well above the routes so approach quickly to keep disturbance to a minimum. 50 minutes from the road.
HOT WALL CONTINUATION
(NF 625 000)
This is the continuation of Hot Wall just left (north) of it. Abseil in.
Sunset 25m VS 4c ** (2009)
Just left of Sunburst. Climb up the crack line then continue trending left of the overhanging area.
Sunburst 25m E2 5b ** (2009)
Start just left of Catch the Sun. Climb up the left side of the rib then climb up to an area of grey rock. Step left and climb straight up the overhanging nose to the top. Perhaps over graded.
Catch the Sun 22m VS 5a *** (2009)
Start 12m left of Thermal at a short right facing corner. Climb this awkwardly (crux), continue up then move right and finish up the obvious fault.
HOT WALL
This short immaculate wall is just north of the rock island on the north side of the rib and can be a sun trap. Abseil in.
1 Thermal 18m Hard Severe ** (2009)
At the left side of the wall is a prominent corner/chimney, climb this using a crack on the left.
Sunspot 18m VS 4b ** (2009)
Start 2m right of Thermal. Move up for 6m step right to gain the vertical crack then continue up slightly leftwards.
Sundae 18m VS 4c ** (2009)
Start up Barrahamas then climb up left to finish at a slot in the sky line.
Barrahamas 18m VS 4c ** (2009)
Start 5m left of the right hand corner. Climb up and step right to gain and climb crackline to horizontal crack. Step right and continue to the top.
Molten18m Severe ** (2009)
Climb the left facing corner at the right side of the wall, on amazing holds, to the big ledge (possible escape). Step right and climb up crack to the horizontal crack, move left to the ramp then up to top.
UNDER HOT WALL
Routes are 15m
2 Severe
ICE CREAM GULLY WALL
The right side of the Hot Wall area has a number of fine routes. The first route is just left of a black dyke, the other three routes are right of the back dyke. Abseil in.
2 Penny Lick 40m Difficult * (2009)
Right of Hot Wall is a rib with a broad face, this route climbs to the right of the broad face. Abseil down rib right of Hot Wall to a small ledge above sea level. Climb up through the open chimney slot, continue up the rib to a ledge below a steep wall. Move right and climb cracks and easier ground.
The next 3 routes lie on the steep buttress to the right of the black dyke. Abseil approach from a wide platform above and right of the dyke to a good ledge system some 10m above sea level.
Mr Softee 40m E1 5b ** (2009)
Takes the left edge of the buttress. From the upper left end of the ledges, climb steeply up the edge overlooking the black chimney for 8m then trend rightwards to reach the big ledge crossing the buttress at 25m. Climb steep cracks on the left side of the buttress to below a prow. Move left and finish up corner cracks.
Mr Whippy 40m E3 6a *** (2009)
The obvious crack line in the centre of the buttress.
25m 6a Start from the right side of the ledges and climb a leftwards slanting ramp to below a thin crack in the leaning wall. Difficult moves lead quickly to better holds. Continue up the crack to the big ledge system.
15m 4b Up a right trending ramp, then go steeply back left to gain the final rightwards leaning crack. This pitch shares a lot of the ground taken by the second pitch of the next route.
3 Hot Fudge Sundae 40m VS 4b ** (2009)
This route climbs the right side of the buttress to the right, abseil to the ledge system above sea level.
25m 4a Climb the straight forward corners just right of the frontal face to a easy fault.
15m 4b Move left to the rib, pull over the bulge and zigzag to the top.
ICE CREAM GULLY UPPER WALL
There are some fine crack lines above a grassy base.
Luca 20m Severe * (2009)
Start at the left side of the ledge at the base of the upper wall where a ramp comes up from the wall below. Climb series of cracks to the top, pleasant but escapable.
Nardini 22m VS 4c ** (2009)
Start around the middle of the ledge (right of the previous route). Climb up through an overhang at 6m. Finish steeply up the left facing flake/corner.
Chocolate Mint Chip 22m VS 4c ** (2009)
Climb the wall just right of the ledge at the base. Climb up slightly left to gain and climb the prominent crack.
Banana Split 18m VS 4b ** (2009)
Start at a slight niche. Climb the crack up and slightly right.
Giannetti 18m VS 4c * (2009)
Climb the wall to the right finishing up the same route.
Just one Cornetto 16m Severe (2009)
Climb past some quartz towards a right facing corner crack, finish up this.
THE LONG SLAB
This is the short slab facing the Ice Cream Gully Upper Wall, above the left side of Dubh Slab.
Routes 8-15m
1 Very Difficult, 1 Severe, 1 HVS
DUBH SLAB
(NL625 998)
This is the prominent dark sweep of slabs opposite Ice Cream Gully Wall. Abseil in or scramble down to the west.
1 Little Black Sambo 35m VS 4c ** (2009)
Abseil down the left side of the slab to a semi hanging belay below two overlaps. Make awkward moves then climb the easy angled crack up slightly left up the slab. Good climbing but a little unbalanced.
2 Black Gold 50m HVS 5a *** (2009)
This is the fine obvious central line up thin left slanting cracks. Abseil to the sloping rock shelf at the base of the right side of the slab.
22m 5a Follow the left slanting corner containing a thin crack then make awkward moves to gain and climb the continuation crack, belay at the wide right slanting crack.
28m 5a Traverse left to gain the continuation crack, follow the crack with interest to the top.
3 Black Light 26m VS 4c *** (2009)
An excellent line. Start a few metres up and right from Gone Fishing. Climb the undercut flake line up left to gain a corner crack, climb the corner crack with interest to the top.
4 Black Velvet 26m VS 5a ** (2009)
Climb up the next route for 4metres then move leftwards up flakes towards a chimney. Climb the fine thin crack left of the chimney.
5 Bible Black 22m VS 4c ** (2009)
The crack at the right side of the slab. Step right at the top and finish up the fine steep slab.
There is a pleasant short severe above these three routes or an easier scramble to the right.
RUBHA NA DOIRLINNE
There are several routes between Dubh Slabs and Barra Wall, abseil in.
Routes are 24-50m
1 Moderate, 1 Very Difficult, 5 Severe, 3 VS
BARRA WALL
(NL 624 997)
These excellent routes are on a steep slabby immaculate wall on the point north of the stacks. A raised platform sits at the base of part of the wall separated from the crag by a ravine containing a rock pool. The raised platform connects to the main crag and leads right towards the vertical sea cave. Abseil to ledges from a huge block.
Escape Route 40m Mod
Traverse left from Barra Wall under another wall to reach a dyke, climb this.
The first routes start from the seaweed covered ledges round to the left of the main slab. There is a short steep wall leading to a terrace.
Sushi 35m VS 5a *** (2005)
Climbs the open corner bounding the left side of the smooth central slab. From the lowest of raised ledges, climb off the left side into a shallow corner in the broad rib. This leads into the corner itself. Up this to the capping roof. Traverse right under it till possible to step back left above it and finish on big holds.
Asahi 35m E3 5c *** (2005)
Climbs the centre of the slab via the line of a brown streak. From the lowest of raised ledges, take easy rock to the base of the streak (gear in the shallow groove on the left). Up the wall with difficulty, through a quartz area direct and on up the brown streak to the right end of the capping roof. Exit right up the steeper headwall.
Haute Coiture 45m E2 ***(2005)
Takles the line of a very shallow groove in the centre of the wall. Start on the sea washed ledges at the left end of a tidal pool.
1 10m 5b Climb the overhanging wall via a thin flake, then head diagonally right to enter a recess leading left to the ledges.
2 35m 5b Head up and right over ledges to gain the base of the shallow groove. This leads to a flake line up to a ledge. From the left end of the ledge climb the slab direct till better holds lead right to exit.
Bad Hair Day 35m E3 5c ** (2009)
Takes a line up the centre of the slabby wall. Abseil approach. Start from ledges 10m above the left end of a tidal pool in a ravine at the base of the crag (top of pitch 1 Haute Coiture). Easily up ledges rightwards to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this and a flake crack to ledges in the middle of the wall (as for Haute Coiture.). From the top right end of the ledges climb the slab direct (bold) moving left to exit.
Hot Catwalk Strutt 45m E2 5c *** (2005)
Takes a line just right of Haute Coiture. Start at the left end of a raised ledge below the main crag in the ravine. From the extreme left end of the ledge climb the steep wall to a small stepped roof. Through these on their right and then up the wall heading left to the arete and gain ledges above (possible belay). Up to the bigger ledge.Up the centre of the steep wall via obvious big flakes, then direct to the right side of a higher smaller ledge. Climb directly up the red/brown slab boldly to a small flake to finish.
Cobra 45m E2 5c *** (2005)
Climbs a line right of ‘Hot Cat..’ through the left side of the steeper wall and the fine shallow groove in the upper slab. Start on the small ledge beside Hot Cat. Climb up into a slim ramp immediately right of Hot Cat. This leads to the steep wall which is climbed on huge black flakes and jugs leading to a quartz roof. Step left below the roof and up to better holds leading into the shallow right facing groove. This leads more easily to the top. An ace pitch.
Sunray Canker 45m E1 5a (2005)
This serious route climbs the line of the conspicuous stepped grooves in the centre of the wall, overlooking the vertical sea cave. Marred by some unstable blocks in the top section. Start from the right end of the raised platform. Climb up a slabby corner to a roof. Traverse hard right and up into the line of the grooves which lead in steps with ledges back leftwards into a left facing corner. Up this to its top and an impass. Climb the steep wall via fragile flakes into a chimney. The left wall of this is formed by horribly hollow sounding blocks, so climb with care up the right arete to the top.
BRETADALE BAY
This is the bay around the stacks. The cliffs in this section are from south of the cave (right of Barra Wall) to the black north facing walls opposite the Barra Wall.
Start at the causeway and walk along the vague track towards Breaker Wall, go past an overhanging crag Junction Walls at NL 628 982, then follow a grassy rake up and left (north north west) to the col then drop down into Glen Bretadale, about one hour from the causeway. Another approach is to walk to Rock Island Area from near the Isle of Barra Hotel and continue along the cliff tops to reach the bay, allow one hour from the hotel.
THE DANCING WALLS
These walls lie immediately right (east) of Barra Wall and extend from the sea cave south to just past the low point in the cliff (before Baldies Pillar) where a burn runs down over slabs. Routes described right to left, abseil in.
Dances With Wellies 22m VS 4c(2009)
Climb the obvious flake crack on the right side of the buttress to the overhang. Step left and up into the steep corner which soon eases, continue to the top. The corner gully just right gives a poor moderate.
Anniversary Waltz 25m VS 4c **(2009)
This route is on the left side of the buttress, 5m left of the previous route. Climb the right slanting hand crack then the red left facing corner crack.
On the left side of the red banded buttress is a gully of rotten red rock. The next obvious feature is a crack line about 7m left. Between these features is a brown slab seemed with thin cracks.
Highland Fling 30m E2/3 5c **(2009)
Climb the thin crack in the centre of the brown slab to below a rib. Go up the crack in the left side of the rib to start, then move onto the right side and up to a large ledge below an overhang. Traverse left into the corner and climb the hanging corner to the top.
Rock Shoe Shuffle 40m E1 5b ***(2009)
Start a few metres left of the last route at the base of the prominent crack line. Use a thin crack in the wall on the left to gain a left wards rising foot ledge that leads across the wall to gain the base of a corner. Climb the corner, then follow a series of grooves ramps trending right wards and up to the top.
Twinkle Toes 40m E4 5c/6a, 5b ***(2010)
Mid way between the starts of ‘Rock Shoe Shuffle’ and ‘Strictly Come Climbing’ is an open shallow groove with a thin flake crack (the natural starting point for ‘Rock Shoe Shuffle’ that that route avoids).
12m 5c/6a Climb the shallow groove with increasing difficulty and sparse protection, moving right at the top to belay on good ledges.
28m 5b Climb up rightwards to a steep slim left facing corner. Up this to it’s top and pull out left onto a slab (junction with ‘Soft Shoe Shuffle’). Continue up slabby ramp rightwards to the top (as for Soft Shoe Shuffle’).
Strictly Come Climbing 45m HVS 5a ***(2009)
Start at the left hand end of the non tidal platform and move up to a large belay ledge below a striking right wards slanting crack/groove line. Follow the obvious diagonal line on good holds.
Trip The Light Fantastic 55m E1 5b,4c **(2010)
Start as for ‘Strictly Come Climbing’ at the left hand end of the non tidal platform and move up to the large belay ledge.
30m 5b Move up the obvious diagonal, as for ‘ Strictly Come Climbing’ for 5m, then step left and climb a steep slim groove in the wall, pull out left onto a slab. Go up left to a short right facing corner crack, this leads to a large belay ledge in the middle of the wall.
25m 4c Climb the slabby corner trending leftwards to reach a short chimney crack and so to the top.
CARVERY BUTTRESS
South of Dancing Walls is a huge sea cave, Carvery Buttress is just south of the cave, 15m back from the cliff top is an obvious rounded block belay. This is about 150m south of Dancing Walls and about 100m south of the burn. South of Carvery Buttress the cliff grows in height and has a loose finish.
Abseil from the rounded block to the huge non tidal block.
Scimitar 35m E3 6a *** (2010)
From the huge non tidal block go down left (north) on the ledge. Climb a short groove to gain a ledge on the left. Follow the stepped arête to the base of a hanging V groove. Climb the groove and jamming crack through two small roofs to a ledge. Go up rightwards via a short corner to the top.
Sickle Groove 35m E2 5c ***(2010)
From the block step across onto the cliff. Move left a few feet then climb the crackline to big ledge and traverse left into the ramp. Climb up the slabby ramp rightwards then climb the overhanging corner.
Kukri 40m HVS 5a **(2010)
Start as for Sickle Groove, step across onto the main cliff, move left a few feet then climb the crackline to ledges on the right. Traverse
THE DEVIL’S HORNS AREA
(NL625 993)
South from Dancing Walls and Carvery Buttress the cliff top reaches a high point, south of this is a grey pillar facing the stacks, Baldies Pillar. This is separated from a huge unclimbed black north west facing wall called Black Boiler Wall by a deep geo. Right of Black Boiler Wall are two geos separated by a pillar, right again is a black slab facing the stacks (The Devil’s Horns) this is Comedy Slab.
BALDIES PILLAR
This is an obvious tall slender slabby pillar. Sloping ledges lie at its foot and a good belay below a feint shallow groove line. Abseil in.
Sensible Feet 45m E3/4 6a * (2005)
Go up and left to a small roof above a short rock scarred groove. Pull over and head left to near the arete. Climb up crozzley rock to a steepening. Gain a thin diagonal crack in the smooth slab above and follow this to gain good holds below the final shallow groove of the last route. Up to the groove and traverse the lip of the roof forming its base, leftwards, then continue left (crux) to gain better holds leading towards the left arete. Gain the diagonal crack in the centre of the slab above to finish.
COMEDY SLAB
The black slab bounded on the right by a corner that separates it from the slab of Route 1. This is directly opposite the stacks. Start from small ledges in the base of this corner. Abseil in.
Sea Cliff Climbing For Beginners 30m VS 4c ** (2003)
Traverse left to start. Climb the shattered crack on immaculate rock up the centre of the slab, exit out a steep corner.
Comedy Duck 30m E1 5b * (2003)
Climbs directly up the centre of right side of the slab, just left of the corner. Traverse left off the ledge and boldly climb the centre of the slab to a second horizontal crack. Gain the two cracks which split the centre of the slab above to under the capping wall. Steeply up a slight corner through this to top out.
The Bretadale stream forms a slight canyon (Death Rattle Gulch) just before dropping into the sea and the north side forms the start of the walls leading round towards a sea stack. This gulch can be crossed southwards from the ledges below this wall to reach a large expanse of tide-free ledges below a steep west facing wall.
DEATH RATTLE GULCH AREA
(NL624 992)
The routes are on walls either side of the gulch. The south facing wall starts deep within the gulch where its base is cut off by pools fed by the stream (and the sea at exceptional tides and storms). Here it forms a smooth slab capped by a huge roof. Further left the wall continues siting above a raised platform where the stream joins the sea and more permanent pools.
THE NORTH GULCH WALL
There are some short steep routes, they are very sheltered. The platform continues as the wall turns a corner and disappears where a black slab drops directly into the sea, lying opposite the sea stacks and this marks the end of the north side of the Gulch Area.
Routes described right to left. Abseil in.
The Mike McCan't Start 18m HVS 5a (2003)
Start above the ‘drowning pool’. Direct up front of buttress to top corner of Norah Batty.
Norah Batty 18m VS 4b (2003)
Climb the obvious disjointed corner line up and slightly right. A steady lead!
Unnamed 18m E2 5c (2003)
Climbs the thin crack in the centre of the wall left of Norah Batty. Start up the wall just right of the lower crack to the roof. Pull through using holds on the right and follow it with a hard move in the upper wall.
Fat Ankles 18m E2 5b (2003)
The wall and overlap left of the thin crack.
Route Two 18m VS 4c * (2003)
The corner to the left in the angle of the crag as it turns to face west, go through a shallow chimney high up
Orangeman Marty McCann 25m E1 5b (2003)
A rising right to left line left of Route Two.
Route One 30m E1 5b (2003)
A rising traverse left of Orangeman Marty McCann. Take a diagonal leftwards line across the top of the slab (under the steeper upper wall) to gain a guano covered ledge in the left arete to finish in a hanging groove right of the corner bounding Comedy Duck.
THE SOUTH GULCH WALL (POOL HALL CRAG)
The walls on the south side of the Gulch face west out to sea, lying above the large tide free ledges. The main section of interest is a very steep west facing wall, abseil in.
There are two poor routes 1 Difficult and 1 VS and the fine looking crack, Pot Black 10m E3 6a **.
THE BLACK RAMP
South of the stacks is a black ramp which slopes down to the left (east). The base of the routes is higher than most of the crags so they might avoid the sea spray in rough weather.
Routes are 14m
2 Difficult, 1 HVS, 1 E1, 2 E2.
WATCH FACE
This is the wall below the top of the black ramp, abseil in.
Routes are 22-30m
1 Very Difficult and 3 VS
FOGHORN WALL
Right (west) of Watch Face is a basalt dyke, Foghorn Wall is west of this and east of the large green slabs. There is a block in the sea, this is a useful locator, abseil in.
Routes are 30m
1 Difficult, 6 Severe, 2 VS, 1 HVS
BLACK AND TANS WALL
Approach as for Breaker Wall but continue past it to the north.
North of Boulder Walls a gully cuts through the cliff, this fine wall overlooks the gully to the north of it, there are a number of ramps on the wall.
The Darkness Beckons 80m E4 6a *** (2009)
A fine line low in the grade, gear is OK but spaced. Abseil down from the north end of Boulder Walls at low tide.
30m 6a This pitch climbs the most obvious bottomless crack in the middle of the face. Start right of the crack below the groove in orange rock. Bridge across the gully to get started on the wall. Climb up the orange groove then climb to the diagonal fault and move up right to gear placement. Step down and traverse horizontally left to gain the groove. Follow crack to ledges on left.
50m 4b Head straight up through a band of black rock, then up to the top going slightly rightwards.
A second pitch 45m Severe * (2010)
At the top of the wall are two right slanting ramps. Abseil to broken ledges at the base of the left hand ramp. Romp up the ramp to a large flake, escape possible. Climb up corner on right of the flake then step left and follow weakness to the overlap, from the right side of the overlap pull up left and continue to the top.
EASY SLAB
This is the slab on the upper right side of Black and Tans Wall, just above Boulder Walls. The slab is climbable anywhere but the rock is perfect so four routes have been recorded.
Walk in from the right (east) or up hill from Boulder Walls. From the top walk off to the right (east).
Crevasse Route 16m Very Difficult *(2010)
Start 10m left of Crescent Climb. Step over the crevasse and climb the slab crossing the slight overlap near the right hand end.
Pocks 16m HVS 4c *(2010)
Start 5m left of Crescent Climb. Climb the slab to the left end of the pock marked flake (gear) then climb the bold slab above.
Crescent Climb 18m Very Difficult *(2010)
There is a pale block sitting on the slab just above the base, start here. Climb up right to the left facing corner, carry on up via the left facing crescent shaped corner/overlap.
Left Block 18m Very Difficult *(2010)
At the right side of the slab is a long pale block a metre or so up. Climb up over the block near the left end then climb a pale streak past another long block below the final bulge. Climb the bulge to easy ground.
Right Block 18m Very Difficult *(2010)
Climb past the right hand side of the long block. Finish up the bulge near the right end.
BOULDER WALLS
Between Black and Tans Wall and Breaker Wall is a length of cliff with huge tidal boulders below. Abseil in for most routes.
1 Diamond Life 35m Severe * (2009)
Roughly in the centre of the wall is a large right angled corner with a huge diamond shaped block in the sea below, abseil into a ledge at the base of the chimney, the corner crack below this was not climbed but should be OK.
Climb the chimney to ledges then climb the wide crack in the corner.
Left Corner 20m Severe (2009)
This and the next two routes start on big ledges half way up Diamond Life on the south side of that route, abseil to the ledge. Start up the corner just left of Angry Skies (the first obvious line right of the upper half of Diamond Life) then follow Angry Skies for a couple of moves, move left to a large platform. Climb the corner crack on the left.
Angry Skies 20m Severe * (2009)
Left of Carat are easy corners, climb the right hand corners.
4 Carat 16m VS 4b ** (2009)
Climb the corner ramp in the middle of the wall up left to a ledge then climb the bulging crack above.
Escape 40m Moderate * (2009)
Walk left of Breaker Wall at low tide to the second boulder along. Climb pleasantly up, there is a choice of routes.
THE BOULDERING CAVE
This is a short cliff of overhanging rock above the right end of The Boulder Walls.
1 Traverse left (west) from the top of the left hand routes on Breaker Wall or.
2 Scramble down and left (west) from above the left end of Breaker Wall or.
3 Abseil in.
1 Stalactite 14m E2 5c **(2010)
Start 2m right of the big boulder at the left side of the cliff. Climb up then move awkwardly right onto a protruding ledge. Climb the steep wall above.
2 Snottite 10m HVS 4b *(2010)
This is a difficult route to grade, climbing on big holds but overhanging with awkward protection, so potentially serious. Start 3m left of the long block at the right hand side of the cliff. Climb overhanging flakes to the left facing flake crack, pull over this then continue easily.
3 Thag 10m VS 5a(2010)
Stand on the long block. Pull onto the undercut wall then continue up.
Gog 10m VS 5a(2010)
Start 1m right of the long block. Pull up then climb the short corner and continue up to the left.
BREAKER WALL
This fine wall is the most westerly on Barra. There are reefs out to sea so at some states of the tide breakers form.
The base is a large platform, the north end has some huge barnacle covered boulders (the start of Boulder Walls), the south end is tidal. Many routes finish at a ledge after 20m, a 20m scramble then leads to the top.
From the causeway cross a fence and walk along faint tracks on the north side of the loch (Caolas Bhatarsaigh). Where the coast starts to get craggy gain some height then drop down to the top of the cliff, 40 minutes from the causeway. Abseil in.
The first four routes climb the pillar at the left side.
1 Potted Haugh 20m HVS 5a **(2010)
Nice exposed climbing after a brutal start. Left of Sirloin is an undercut slab, left again is a very undercut triangular slab. Gain the triangular slab with difficulty then climb up slightly left to an overhang. Traverse right below the overhang till below a corner crack on the edge, climb the corner crack then up to the ledge.
2 Sirloin 20m E1 5b *** (2009)
A fine varied climb, start at a recess in the centre of the pillar at the north end of the wall. Climb up to a triangular block then step left, continue up the corner slightly right to finish over a bulge to the ledge.
Rump 20m E1 5a ** (2009)
Climb the crack just left of the arête steeply to an easing of the angle, climb bulges then up to the ledge.
Rib eye 20m E1 5a ** (2009)
This route climbs the left arête of the pillar. Start just right of the arête at a crack. Climb up the crack for a couple of moves then step left and climb steeply to the ledge.
Drop In 20m E3 6a ** (2009)
Sustained crimping up the wall left of the leaning corner. Turn the roof at 12m on the left.
3 Druth’s Groove 20m E2 5b *** (2009)
This route is low in the grade and gives fine sustained climbing. Climb the steep left leaning corner, the route continues up then slightly right to a step left below the roof to gain the ledge.
In Black 25m HVS 5a ** (2009)
Climb up to then through the open chimney, climb up the open groove above then pull out right over the bulge.
4 Frigger’s Climb 25m E1 5a * (2009)
Step left above the pool (as for the next route) head up left to climb the brown stained rib. There is an awkward move at the top and some of the runner placements are not obvious.
Pool Corner 20m Hard Severe ** (2009)
To the right of the pillar is a bay, this route climbs the obvious corner at the right side of the bay. Step left above a pool to gain the corner.
The Green Boulderer 20m VS 4b * (2009)
Climb the rib through two bulges to easier ground.
Rain Stops Play 20m Severe * (2009)
Climb the recessed corner then easier ground.
Escape Direct 20m Severe * (2009)
The rib right of Rain Stops Play.
Escape Route 20m Difficult * (2009)
Start at the left side of the rib as for the previous route then climb out right. Follow the crack line up.
The last four routes have tidal starts.
Party Wave 35m E4 6a ** (2009)
Start three metres left of Rock Dance. Difficult moves lead up to a small roof. Trend up and right to a shallow groove and junction with Rock Dance. Follow the groove for a few metres then pull out left to a steep finish.
Rock Dance 35m E3 6a ** (2009)
Pull over the initial steep black bulge then make some crimpy moves to a shallow groove and junction Party Wave. Continue to a good ledge. Trend up and rightwards to a tricky finish.
Classic Corner 35m E3 5c **** (2009)
The stunning left facing corner crack at the right side of the wall, perhaps low in the grade. The finish is overhanging, a friend 4 is a loose fit so a larger cam would be useful.
Impact Zone 35m E6 6b *** (2009)
A powerful start soon merges into a sustained and technical sequence of moves switching up either side of the arête. This eventually leads to a bold finish on the right.
FEUDAIL
(NL 636 979)
This cliff is obvious looking to Barra from Vatersay and might be a good option when many of the sea cliffs are exposed to the elements. Walk west from the causeway to reach the crag in five minutes.
Routes 12-20m
3 Very Difficult, 2 Severe, 1 VS, 2 HVS, 1 E1, 2 5a.
BOULDERING
(NF 699 048)
Problems have been climbed on a boulder near the airfield. The boulder is fairly prominent and can be seen from various locations to the south.
Park at NF 698 052 off the road and walk south east up the hillside for 500m.
Traigh Hard 6m Font 6b **
Sit start right hand side of overhanging north face, climb diagonally left to plate jug on lip then rockover.
First Traigh 5m Font 6a
Sit start right arête of north face and up into the fist niche.
The Vatersay Boys 5m Font 6c**
Nice arete on the south east corner of the bloc. Sit start from the good pocket.
JUNCTION WALLS
(NL 628 982) Alt 20m south west facing
At the junction of the routes to Breaker Wall and Bretadale Bay. These leaning walls have been played on a little.
CLACH NA CREEL
(NL 637 977) Alt 20m
There are some green boulders just west of the causeway, less than five minutes walk.
Who Split My Pint? V3 - takes the left arete of the farthest left boulder. SS using a good flake.
